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之前大霸尖山沒有如期抽到，卻趕上這次三重的路跑報名。Alex和我是後來加入這場路跑，Alex臨時有事無法參加，由石頭的前同事KID代跑。KID路跑前一天才接到通知，第一次路跑就要受託跑10K，對他是一大考驗。

當天我們約了六點，接近中山橋開始有人穿著路跑衣服騎著車，當然跟著他們騎。到中山橋停車時，接到KID電話，他住附近，十五分鐘的距離，我跟KID會合，又遇到babu，上個廁所之後，就趕著檢錄。遠遠的看到swim一家在廟前停車，來不及打招呼，廣播已經催著我們去檢錄。


[檢錄]

檢錄的人在我們的號碼布上面打個勾，到處巡視還有沒有人要檢錄，我和kid在拱門後面等出發，拱門後面已經聚集了很多人，除了我和KID兩個人跑10K，其他朋友都是全家出動跑5K，5K的檢錄和出發都比10K晚，babu在我們開跑前跑來幫我們拍了照，也多虧有他們跑5K，可以幫我們多拍一些照片，以前全部的人都忙著跑9K10K的，根本沒什麼心情拍照，倒是成立慢跑俱樂部之後，發現我們實在沒有活動照片，就卯起來開始幫大家紀錄。

槍聲一響，開跑了，因為人少，很快就散了，也沒有人擠人的現象。我要KID先跑，別等我，我照樣習慣起跑放很慢。跑步的人群裡面有一群小朋友穿著棒球裝，肯定是老師規定要跑的，但小朋友幾乎都在走路，突然跑起來速度很快，又很快就停下來走路。有一個腿很長的女孩穿的厚底的鞋也來跑，我比較擔心她的腳會受傷，在我旁邊的人幾乎都在走路，而且距離很遠，跑起來沒有同伴的感覺，很想跟旁邊的人一樣走路，但意志力不斷地鞭策自己繼續跑不要停，以前都這樣跑，這次也一定可以的。


[老師一家]


[swim和姪女]

跑，邊跑邊看看四周風景，右手邊是淡水河，卻沒有美景可看，一樣是無聊的河濱，步伐往前一路風景卻乏善可成，令人沒有前進的感覺。三十幾分後，遇到折返的KID，我跟他喊加油，依這樣的速度繼續跑，他應該一小時十分會完跑。我繼續跑，還沒看到折返點，路上沒有里程碑，1K...2K...3K在哪哩，完全不知道，不知道自己跑了多少，不知道前面還有多遠，不知道折返點在哪裡。我只好把橋當作里程碑，到了橋下就按一下碼錶，四十分鐘不到，我到了折返點，工作人員看我是女生，給我一條粉紅色的髮圈當信物。

過了折返點，身體才有熱起來的感覺，起跑的時候，左邊的肚子有點痛楚，後來沒有了，跑了一段路，肺脹的很兇，大約是沒常跑這樣的距離，肺有點工作過度。

我還在跑，遇到阿伯，趕上他了，跟他並肩跑，看到補水站，我拿了一杯，含了一口又吐掉，整杯水丟在旁邊，但沒停下來喝水的阿伯已經差我一大段，我在他後面，卻趕不上他，雖然他的速度不快，我的腳卻更酸。


[代跑的KID]


[剩1K了]


[終點在前面了]


[呼～跑完了]


[5K的babu和swim姪女抵達終點]

剩1K左右，swim來拍照，5K很快就跑完了，我很累，腳抬不起來，臉也笑不出來，我跑我的，不管他拍照。我看一下手機，沒多少時間了，我應該要加快步伐，希望可以跑出好成績。遠遠的可以看到終點，卻怎麼也跑不完，加快了又撐不久，我已經無法衝刺，就維持跑步的姿態回到終點吧。

工作人員給我名次卡，摘下號碼布上的名牌。我累的只想找冰水喝，卻只看到沒冰的礦泉水和毛巾，名次卡上面蓋了印章，領了東西，繳回髮圈，我繼續找自助式早餐去。


[排行榜]

很多人手上拿了便當，應該是早餐吧，但有點失望，怎麼會是便當呢？領餐有分葷素，還滿貼心的，但我被旁邊的綠豆湯吸引過去，滿心希望是冰的，果然是冰的，還有一統滿滿的冰塊，真是開心。在綠豆湯旁邊逗留，我一碗接著一碗，喝了九碗才罷休，只是我的早餐也吃不下了，領了早餐給babu。早餐有米粉、包子和青菜，滿豐盛的，而且吃完還可以再去要，連babu也說吃好飽，挺令我吃驚的。


[自助式早餐]


[自助式早餐]


[綠豆湯]

KID跑完就走了，swim一家也走了，剩下swim、babu和老師一家人留下來等摸彩，後來老師一家要走，主持人突然問有誰帶四個小孩去，我們馬上把老師叫回來，他們領了一個水壺，雖然摸彩沒摸到，也值得安慰了。

摸彩的速度很慢，中間穿插的表演都是有點年紀的人在表演，而且獎品似乎是太多，都隨便找個名目就送，什麼四個小孩，什麼年紀七十以上，連最後會場清潔都可以送，真不過是＂社區＂盃，而四千多人不到的路跑，有腳踏車可摸，又只有50元，難怪全家出動，樂透也不過如此，中獎機率還高太多了，一堆人手中都一疊摸彩券耶。


[摸彩]]]> http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/?entry=entry081007-012949 chenchingching@pchome.com.tw Tue, 07 Oct 2008 01:29:49 GMT http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/comments.php?y=08&m=10&entry=entry081007-012949 http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/index.php?entry=entry080930-034404 帶鎖鉤環或不帶鎖鉤環?

Few European climbers use locking krabs on belays, but in the UK, there is an almost paranoid reaction to using open gate krabs. Many climbing instructors use locking krabs when working and open gate krabs when playing. Why?
幾乎沒有歐洲攀岩者確保時會使用帶鎖鉤環，但在美國，使用不帶鎖鉤環就會引起很偏激的反應。很多攀岩老師工作時使用帶鎖鉤環，出去玩用不帶鎖鉤環，為什麼這樣？

This is a judgement call but consider the following before deciding what to do:
這是主觀判斷，但想想下面情況再決定做什麼：

•If the consequence of the rope coming out of the krab would be catastrophic, a screw gate krab must be used; e.g. all attachments to the harness or single anchor points.
•如果繩子脫出鉤環的下場很悽慘，一定要用帶鎖鉤環；例如所有連接座帶的東西或是單一固定點。

•The chance of the rope coming out of the krab on anchor placements is small unless you decide to do an Irish jig on the stance, especially when using a clove hitch that is pulled tight.
•在放固定點的地方，繩子脫出鉤環的機會很小，除非你決定要在那個位置做Irish jig，尤其是使用拉緊的雙套結的時候。

That said, screw gates are advisable on all top and bottom rope belays because the constant movement of the system could conceivably cause the rope to come out of an open gate krab.
就是說，帶鎖鉤環適用於上方確保和下方確保，因為系統持續的動作相信會造成繩子脫出不帶鎖的鉤環。]]> http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/?entry=entry080930-034404 chenchingching@pchome.com.tw Tue, 30 Sep 2008 03:44:04 GMT http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/comments.php?y=08&m=09&entry=entry080930-034404 http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/index.php?entry=entry080930-034323 缺失六、確保失敗

Injury Potential – High if the whole belay disintegrates
Likelihood – Only quick reflexes and brute force prevent it happening more often
Avoidance – Follow the advice given below
Locking or open gate krabs?
潛在危險 - 高，如果整個確保瓦解
發生頻率 - 只有反應快和蠻力能避免更常發生
避免方式 - 跟著下面的建議做

I remember watching a very famous climber disappear over the cliff edge when his second fell off... Luckily he is still around today. I watched a second on a multi pitch climb drop his leader a long way and end up in pool of blood as he was lifted into a cave roof. I have also been an expert witness at a tragic accident when a belay failed. All could be avoided with some simple rope work.
我記得看過一個有名的攀岩者在第二攀登者跌落後從峭壁邊緣消失...幸運地他今天還在。我看過第二攀登者在多繩距攀登時離他的先鋒者很遠一段距離，最後躺在血泊中，頭撞到洞頂。我也一直是確保失敗這種悲慘意外發生時的作證專家。而只要用繩子做一些簡單的工作就可以避免所有事情。

When constructing a belay consider the following things:
確保時仔細想想以下事情：

SOLID ANCHORS
堅固的固定點

Search widely, do not accept the first anchors found, unless they are good of course. Do not use micro wires or SLCD’s unless you have to and only use fixed gear as a last resort. Two anchors are normally a minimum.
廣泛蒐尋，別接上第一批找到的固定點，當然除非牠們很好。沒必要別使用微導線(micro wires)或伸縮式輪軸保護器(SLCD)，只能使用固定裝備做為最後一招。一般最少要兩個固定點。

EQUALIZE ANCHORS
使固定點平均受力

The phrase ‘back up anchors’ is confusing because the belay comprises of all the anchors together not one backed up by the others. Ideally, if part of the belay fails then the remainder of the anchors take the load with no movement of the climber during a fall.
”支援固定點”這個詞很混淆，因為確保是由所有固定點一起組成，沒有哪個固定點有其他的固定點做支援。理想中，若部分確保失效，剩下的固定點承受重量，而攀爬者墜落時就無法動作。

INDEPENDENT ANCHORS
獨立固定點

Two smaller nuts placed in the same crack, but used as individual anchors are in effect a single anchor point because if the crack expands both come out. Whenever possible place anchors in separate sections of the cliff.
兩個小的nuts放在同一裂縫，做兩個個別的固定點，而實際上卻是單一的固定點，因為裂縫一擴大兩個固定點就會脫出，無論何時，固定點分開放置峭壁不同區。

TIGHT ROPE
緊繃的繩子

Keep the ropes taut between you and the anchors. This will prevent the belayer disappearing over the edge. Be careful using anchors a long way back because rope stretch may deposit the belayer over the cliff edge.
拉緊你跟確保者之間的繩子，這樣可以防止確保者在邊緣消失，小心使用固定點，確保離的有點遠時，繩子延伸之後可能確保者會跑回峭壁邊緣。

STAND or SIT?
站或坐？

When the anchors are low down, a standing belayer can be pulled to their knees and could even let go of the rope. Sit down when the anchors are below shoulder height. The disadvantage of sitting is that it is difficult to give assistance to a struggling second without your leg muscles.
當固定點很低，確保者站著可能會被拉走膝蓋著地，甚至繩子會滑掉。當固定點在肩膀下面就坐下來，坐著的缺點是很難用你的腳部肌肉去幫助掙扎的第二攀登者。

COMMUNICATION
溝通

Communicating with the second is easier when they are visible.
看得見第二攀登者時溝通是較容易的。

DIRECTION of FORCES
受力方向

Consider which way a fall will pull the belayer and equalize the anchors such that a fall does not pull the belayer sideways or upwards.
思考一下墜落時怎樣會拉走確保者，怎樣讓固定點平均受力，這樣墜落就不會把確保者往旁邊拉或網上啦。

WHAT IF
假設狀況

Finally, ask: “What happens if the second or leader falls?” If the answer is nothing then the belay is good, if the answer is anything else then look again at the belay.
最後問一問：＂如果第二攀登者或先鋒者墜落會發生什麼事？＂如果答案是沒有什麼事情發生，那麼就是好的確保，如果答案是別的，再度檢查確保。]]> http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/?entry=entry080930-034323 chenchingching@pchome.com.tw Tue, 30 Sep 2008 03:43:23 GMT http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/comments.php?y=08&m=09&entry=entry080930-034323 http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/index.php?entry=entry080930-034134 缺失八 - 運動攀登下降

Injury Potential – Death potential very high
Likelihood – It happens more often than it should
Avoidance – Don’t fall into the trap of thinking that sport climbing is safe
潛在危險 - 死亡可能性很高
發生頻率 - 比應該發生的頻率還多很多
避免方式 - 別誤認為運動攀登是安全

Sport climbs are the ultimate convenience climbs; pre-placed bolts and a point at the top of the climb to lower off from, means that all you require to climb them are some quick draws, a rope and a trusty belayer. However, this simplicity can lead to complacency and fool people into thinking that sport climbing is safe – especially those ‘trad’ climbers going on a winter sport-climbing trip for the first time.
運動攀登是最早的方便的攀登; 事先放置的耳片和攀登頂端做撤退的確保站，表示攀岩需要的是一些快扣，一條主繩和值得信任的確保者。然而，這種簡單造成自滿且騙人以為運動攀登是安全的 - 尤其是第一次參加冬季運動攀登旅行的傳統攀登者會這樣認為。

Lowering off
先鋒撤退

The vast majority of sports climbs have a ‘lower off’ point at the top, which may consist of two bolts and possibly a linking chain or sling.
大多數的運動攀登上方都有個先鋒撤退的確保站，確保站由兩個耳片，可能還有一條連接繩或扁帶所組成。

How to stay alive!
如何活著！

•The first thing to do, before climbing, is to make sure that there is enough rope to lower back down. If in doubt tie a knot in the spare end or even tie the belayer into the rope. However, if you do make a mistake and there is not enough rope to lower down tie another rope to it and bypass the resulting knot by placing a second belay device (still on the original belayer’s harness) onto the rope below the knot. This is easier if there is a third person to help or the lead climber can take their weight off the rope. Alternatively drop from bolt to bolt until there is enough rope to lower off!
•攀登前要做的第一件事是確定有足夠的繩子可以下降。若有存疑在繩尾綁個結，甚至讓確保者綁著繩子。但是你真的犯錯沒有足夠繩子下降，綁上另外一條繩子，繞過產生的結，從結的下面繩子裝上第二個確保器（依然在原本確保者的座帶上）。如果有第三個人幫忙或先峰攀登者可以不把體重放在繩子上這樣會更簡單。也可以從一個又一個耳片下降，直到有足夠的繩子可以做先鋒撤退。

•If you do find yourself on a route that is too long to lower off, the easiest way is to pull a spare rope up and abseil off.
•如果你發現所在的路線太長沒辦法做先鋒撤退，最簡單的方式就是拉一條備用的繩子並垂降。

•Communication is vital! Do not remove a climber from the belay device until you are absolutely sure they want you to... Don’t assume anything. Too many sport climbers have leaned back to be lowered only to find that they are not being belayed, with disastrous results.
•溝通非常重要！不要把攀登者從確保器移掉直到你完全確定他們要你做... 別預設任何事情，太多運動攀登者躺下來要下降，發現他們沒有被確保住，下場很悲慘.
•UK sports climbs are often not as well prepared as continental ones so don’t expect bolts every few feet and lower offs that consist of two bolts and a chain. If the lower off is a sling do not, under any circumstances, lower from the sling itself, add a krab.
•不像歐洲運動攀登，美國運動攀登常常沒有好好準備，所以不要預期每幾呎就有耳片，和兩個耳片及一條繩子的確保站。如果確保站是一條扁帶任何情況都不要從扁帶下降，加個鉤環再說。

The following procedure will ensure that you lower off safely:
下面步驟確認你安全的先鋒撤退：

Step 1: Clip yourself from the abseil loop to the bolts using two quick draws
第一步：用兩根快扣把自己從垂降圈掛進耳片。
Step 2: Pull up two metres of rope, tie a Figure of Eight knot and clip it into your belay loop using a screw gate krab.
第二步：拉出兩公尺繩子，綁個八字結，用有鎖鉤環掛進確保環。
Step 3: Untie from the end of the rope and thread the end of the rope through the bolts or single lower point.
第三步：解開繩端的結，繩子穿過耳片或較低的單一點。
Step 4: Tie in again.
第四步：再綁進去。
Step 5: Untie the Figure of Eight knot from the rope.
第五步：從繩端解開八字結。
Step 6: Take the tension on the rope checking everything is correct.
第六步：繩子收緊，檢查每個東西都是正確的。
Step 7: Remove the quick draws and lower down.
第七步：收回快扣下降。

If the climb is so steep that you cannot retrieve the quick draws, clip a krab or quick draw from your harness to the climbing rope to keep you into the cliff. Be careful removing the last one because you could take your belayer with you as you swing out. To make life easier, at the last bolt the belayer should stand as close to the cliff as possible.
如果攀爬路線很陡，取不到快扣，座帶和繩子之間掛個鉤環或快扣，你就可以靠近峭壁，取最後一個快扣要小心，因為你盪出去可能會把確保者也帶出去。最簡單的方式是，最後一個耳片時，確保者要儘量靠著峭壁站。

Falling off and getting back to the rock
掉下來並回到岩塊

Although this doesn’t really fit into the ‘Dying to Climb’ remit it may help a few people to overcome a problem. Sport climbing means that you can push yourself close to your technical limits in relative safety. This means that you are more likely to fall off. If the leader falls off and can reach the rope running to the belayer, they can pull down on it and pulley themselves back to their high point as the belayer takes in the slack rope. If the leader is hanging in space, the leader can use a technique called ‘snapping’. It is a strenuous technique where the leader pulls up on their rope and then lets go as the belayer simultaneously takes in (which does require good teamwork). The most effective method of doing this is for the belayer to sit on the rope, and then as the climber releases the rope he sits further down, takes in and repeats.
雖然這不符合＂搏命攀岩＂的主題，卻可以幫一些人克服問題。運動攀登表示你可以在相對安全的狀況下把自己的技術推到極限，如果先鋒攀登者掉下來，可以碰到確保者的繩子，就可以用繩子拉下去，滑回高處，此時確保者收緊鬆鬆的繩子。如果先鋒者吊在半空中，可以使用一種技巧叫做＂snapping＂。這個技巧很緊張，先鋒者把繩子往上拉又放下，確保者同時間要收繩（需要好的團隊默契）。最有效率的方式是確保者坐在繩子上，攀爬者一放繩，他坐的更下面，收繩，再重複一遍。]]> http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/?entry=entry080930-034134 chenchingching@pchome.com.tw Tue, 30 Sep 2008 03:41:34 GMT http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/comments.php?y=08&m=09&entry=entry080930-034134 http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/index.php?entry=entry080930-033805 Pegs

With the advent of modern protection, there is a limited need for pegs, but this has meant that the art of placing them and assessing their security is disappearing.
現代保護點的出現，限制了對pegs的需求，這表示放置pegs和評價pegs安全的技術漸漸消失。



•Do not force the peg to fit the crack, choose one that fits the crack. A perfectly placed peg should slide one third of the way in before hammering and should go all the way up to the eye when hammered. A well-placed peg has a rising ringing sound as you hammer it further into the crack. A dull ‘cluncking’ sound usually means poor rock or a marginal placement where the peg is not in contact with the rock. Angle pegs however can be overdriven spreading the sides and reducing the holding power.
•不要強把peg塞進裂縫，挑個適合那個裂縫的peg。放置完美的peg敲鎚子前應該滑進三分之ㄧ，鎚的時候完全由眼睛決定。當你把peg鎚進裂縫鎚得更進去時，放好的peg會有一個上揚的響聲。而鈍鈍的cluncking聲音通常表示岩塊不好，或敲到邊緣而peg沒有跟岩塊接觸。有角度的peg可能敲過頭，旁邊展開而降低抓力。

•If it has not been possible to hammer the peg all the way in because the crack is shallow stop hammering when it has bottomed out to avoid loosening the peg. Then tie it off using a slipknot, lark’s foot or clove hitch on a sling (do not use bulky rope or cord), the best is Dyneema/Spectra. The clove hitch will not come off the peg but it does not put the load close to the rock, so use it when security is the priority not reducing leverage. The slipknot comes undone but puts the load closest to the rock so use it on poorly placed pegs. Stacking pegs is described in chapter eight aid climbing.
•若是因為縫隙很淺不可能把peg完全敲進去，到底就停止鎚打以免弄鬆peg。然後在扁帶上用滑結(slipknot)、lark's foot或雙套結(clove hitch)綁緊（別用笨重的繩子或細繩），最好是Dyneema/Spectra纖維。雙套結不會脫出peg但重量負擔沒靠近岩塊，安全優先非減輕力量優先時就使用雙套結。滑結會鬆開但是重量負擔最靠近岩塊，pegs沒放好就用滑結。堆疊的pegs第八章救援攀登會提到。

Without a hammer it is difficult to test a fixed peg but a reasonable test is to loosely hold a krab in two fingers and tap it on the peg, the sound it makes will indicate whether it is safe.
沒有鎚子很難測試釘好的peg，但有一個合理的測試方式，用兩隻指頭鬆鬆地拿著鉤環，在peg上輕拍，發出的聲音會指出安全與否。]]> http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/?entry=entry080930-033805 chenchingching@pchome.com.tw Tue, 30 Sep 2008 03:38:05 GMT http://www.aruba.org.tw/blog/starrie/comments.php?y=08&m=09&entry=entry080930-033805